Anthro-style embellished cardigan

I adore cardigans.  I'm not exaggerating when I say my cardigan collection takes up at least half my closet.  My standard work outfit is a cute top, a pencil skirt or slacks (seasonally-dependent), flats, and a cardigan.  It's my thing.  I also love wearing pieces that not everyone else has.  When I saw the two Anthropology cardigans in the image above on pinterest (right side), I had to have them.  The trouble with pinterest is you can pin things that are no longer available and you get all excited for nothing.  The two gorgeous sweaters above are not available on the Anthropology website.

So I decided to make my own.

I got a navy blue cardigan from Target for about $20.  They make a perfect standard cardigan, by the way, I highly recommend it for the price.  But I was not about to embroider my own flowers.  I don't have that skill, and I probably would have ruined a perfectly good cardigan had I tried.  Amazon has pretty much everything, including these applique embroidered motifs in a variety of colors and designs, for about $6.  

These appliques don't have the glue backing that some patches do, so they work much better for sewing onto knit fabrics.  I'm not really sure how these are supposed to be used.  Maybe they're intended for adding flair to a t-shirt or pullover or something like that.  But that shape (and the green color) was not going to work for me, so I cut it apart and saved the leaves for another project.

I laid out the flowers in a design I liked...

...transferred to the sweater, and pinned into place.

I hand sewed them using a similar color thread (coral colored in this case) in an overcast stitch.  I would resist the temptation to use a sewing machine for this.  While it would certainly be much quicker, I just don't trust it.  Knits are too stretchy...and bouncy.  I prefer to maintain the control of a hand stitch, so you can see what's happening to the sweater with each and every pass of the needle.  I would hate to get the applique sewn into place only to find that the fabric got pulled too much in one spot and made the sweater all wonky.

I sewed on my bits of applique on Saturday night after putting the kids to bed and it took me about 2 hours, start to finish.  By Sunday morning I had a brand new cardigan that no one else in the world has.  And it cost me roughly $26.

I'm already planning my next embellished cardigan project.  I'm thinking an ivory cardigan (which I happen to already have) with neutral toned appliques.  I checked, and Amazon has some good motifs in just the right colors.

Gothic Lace Composition Slouchie

Anyone who follows this blog knows that I like a good composition hat.  My fingers get bored, and knitting an entire piece in the round quickly becomes tedious and tiresome.  I need a bit more adventure in my knitting projects.  Which sounds like an odd thing to say.

I also recently bought myself a couple new books of knitting stitches, and I've been itching to try out some of the stitch patterns.  This is one of the simple ones; it's Gothic Lace, which is on the beginner end of the spectrum, and can also be found online with a chart, if that's your preference.  Increases are yarn overs, and decreases are both ssk and k2tog.  A good one to allow yourself to mildly zone out while knitting...a sitcom stitch but not a drama/suspense stitch, if you will.

This hat is made out of lovely, silky-soft Malabrigo Rios in Glazed Carrot.  I've had it in my stash for a few years and finally decided I couldn't resist any longer; I had to make something out of it for myself.  It has interesting color variations from the dyeing method, and it's just so, so pretty and soft.

The brim piece is knit straight, blocked, then wrapped around and stitched together to hold in place.  Stitches along the side are picked up and then knitted stockinette in the round for a few inches before decreasing in a star-shape.

I used size 8 circular needles, and the buttons are salvaged from a craft store bargain bin.  They don't match, but they're all about the same color.

Gothic Lace Composition Slouchie

To knit the brim:
CO 25 stitches.  Knit garter stitch for 5-6 rows and then switch to the Gothic Lake pattern described below.  I left two stitches on either end for a border; the border stitches on the left side of the RS are garter, while on the right side they're stockinette.  The garter border makes the bottom of the brim and looks a little like ribbing, while the stockinette border makes the stitches easier to pick up in the round.

Gothic Lace pattern:
Row 1:  k2, k2tog, yo, k1, *(ssk, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, k2tog, k1) repeat*, yo, ssk, k2
Row 2 (and all even/WS rows): k2, then purl all
Row 3:  k2, k2tog, yo, k1, *(ssk, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, k2tog, k1)*, yo, ssk, k2
Row 5:  k2, k2tog, yo, k1, *(ssk, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, k2tog, k1)*, yo, ssk, k2
Row 7:  k2, k2tog, yo, k1, *(yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1)*, yo, ssk, k2
Row 9:  k2, k2tog, yo, k1, *(k1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2)*, yo, ssk, k2
Row 11:  k2, k2tog, yo, k1, *(k2, yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo, k3)*, yo, ssk, k2

k2tog = knit 2 stitches together knitwise
yo = (yarn over) wrap the working yarn around the righthand needle to create a new stitch
ssk = (slip, slip, knit) slip 1 stitch knitwise, slip, 1 stitch knitwise, then put the lefthand needle through the back loops and knit them together
sl1-k2tog-psso = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit the next 2 stitches together, then pass the slipped stitch over

Continue in the Gothic Lace pattern until the piece measures about 22 inches, or wraps comfortably around your head with just a little stretch, and overlaps 1-2 inches or so.  The overlap creates a flap for the button detail, which makes them look more functional.  Then BO and block.

Once the piece is blocked, wrap one end over the other (RS out) with the garter stitch end overlapping the other (for the flap).  Secure it together with a few quick sewing stitches using a yarn needle (use the same yarn as your project so you can't see it).  Pick up stitches from the stockinette side.  You want to end up with 70 stitches, so you may need to increase stitches for a row in the round, depending on how many you were able to pick up.  I ended up having to make about 10 stitches, which I did by knitting in the front and back of evenly distributed stitches.

To finish the hat:
Using dpns or circular needles, knit stockinette in the round (knit all stitches) for about 3 inches before starting the decreases described below.

Decrease row 1: *k5, ssk, k2tog, k10, ssk, k2tog*
Decrease row 2 (and all even decrease rows): knit all stitches
Decrease row 3: *k4, ssk, k2tog, k8, ssk, k2tog*
Decrease row 5: *k3, ssk, k2tog, k6, ssk, k2tog*
Decrease row 7: *k2, ssk, k2tog, k4, ssk, k2tog*
Decrease row 9: *k1, ssk, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2tog*
Decrease row 11: *ssk, k2tog*
Decrease row 13: *sl1, k2tog, psso*

Once you are left with only a few stitches, cut the working yarn and thread it through the stitches left on the needles.  Pull together and thread through the center, then weave in.

The flap on the brim piece now needs some buttons.  I did four in a similar color, and placed them evenly down the length of the flap.  You could do a contrasting color, or several different colors if that's your fancy.  I used thick embroidery thread in orange, because my yarn needle wouldn't fit through the button holes.  The color is similar enough to my yarn color that you can't tell it's not the same.  These buttons are not functional; they're just pretty and add a bit of flair.

And now you have a unique slouchie hat that was super fun to make!  Enjoy!

Thumbie Gauntlets

I made these gauntlets a few months ago and have been wearing them almost religiously since the weather started getting colder in the mornings.  You may be able to see that in the pictures; the wool is starting to gather some pills here and there, like any well-loved knitted piece.  They are extremely comfortable, and the stitch makes them thick and fluffy.  Lately I've been wearing them over my sleeves for extra protection from the wind.  Cuz damn it's cold out there.

These are very simple to make; the hardest part is staying focused on the stitch pattern.  Because it's two repeats rather than one, you can tune out easily and forget whether the row was supposed to start with a purl or a knit.

The thumb is nothing fancy; it's created by picking up stitches after the piece is completed.  They almost look like they're giving you a thumbs up when not being worn.  These could certainly be made longer or shorter, depending on your preference, but I like where they hit me right in the center of my forearm.  They slide on easily and stay put.

I used Shepherd's Wool, an aran spun wool (17 sts = 4 inches) and size 8 circular needles.  You will also need size 7 circs or dpns to complete the thumbs.

Thumbie Gauntlets
CO 38 st and join in the round, being careful not to twist the work.  To avoid weaving in the tail, knit it into the first row (optional, but it's nice).
Work 1x ribbing (k1, p1*) for 8 rows.

The pattern is a simple 4-row repeat, as follows:
Rows 1 and 2: k1, p1*
Rows 3 and 4: p1, k1*

Work the pattern for 52 rows (13 pattern repeats) in the round, then on row 53 continue the pattern working flat (not continuing in the round).  Knit flat for 12 rows (3 pattern repeats).  For these rows, as you would no longer be knitting in the round, the odd rows (WS) of the pattern become reversed.

After the 65th row (13th after beginning flat knitting), rejoin in the round for row 66 and continue in pattern for an additional 8 rows.

Work 1x ribbing (k1, p1*) for 6 more rows, then BO loosely in pattern.

Using size 7 needles, pick up 14 stitches at the hole created by the straight knitted rows (7 on each side), and join in the round.  Work 8 rows of 1x ribbing (k1, p1*), and BO loosely in pattern.

Weave in the ends.  Repeat for the other gauntlet.

Lightning McQueen boy's hat

My 3-year old is obsessed with Lightning McQueen from Cars (Disney, 2006 [just a little CYA in case any representatives of the Disney company happen upon this]).  His Lightning McQueen car usually accompanies him wherever he goes, including bed.  He regularly subjects me to Lightning-centric movies, short films, story books, coloring books, discussions, and play time.  It gets annoying, but I’m glad he enjoys it.

With the colder weather slowly approaching, I realized all the hats and beanies my son owns are for babies, and no longer appropriate for a little man such as himself.  I asked him if he wanted me to make him a hat, and he requested a hat that looks like Lightning.  I dithered for a while over exactly how a hat would look like Lightning.  I've seen some knit hats with eyes or wheels, or other disturbing approximations of the anthropomorphic car.  But then I settled on more of an implied Lightning, rather than trying to duplicate him and ending up with something weird.

This hat attempts to resemble the Doppler effect, with the two colors blending together so that as one gets smaller the other one gets larger.  However, I am no physicist, I am actually quite dumb, so I’m sure the Doppler effect doesn’t really look like that.  I was trying to go for something that looked cool and conveyed speed.

The decreases happen quickly.  For this hat I didn’t put any knit rows between the decreasing rows, so it ends at nearly a 90-degree angle.  The final red stripes almost look like squares, with the decreased angles coming together like an X.  There was no special reason for that, aside from the fact that I thought it would look neat.

I should also note that this hat is pretty loose on my son's giant, Norwegian cranium.  I even put it on myself and it fit, but it was a little tight on me.  So this hat will probably fit him for many years to come, and could easily be made for a larger kid.

I used Cascade 220 worsted wool (4.5 st per 1-inch) and size 8 circular needles.  The colors on this hat are black, red, and dark orange to mimic Lightning McQueen, but this hat could be done using any combination of colors.

Doppler Effect/Lightning McQueen hat

co 72 sts in black, join in the round, being careful not to twist the work.

k2, p2 for 2 rows.

Switch to red, then k2, p2 for an additional 6 rows.

Continue in stockinette (knit all stitches) for 12 rows, then begin the color variation pattern.

(Note: if your little one is not as big a fan of red as my son is, you could begin the color variation sooner to get a hat with more orange on it.  Just be sure to compensate by starting the decreasing later; ie., if you start the orange stripes 6 rows sooner, then begin decreasing 6 rows later than described below)

Row 13: Orange for 1 row, knit all stitches

Row 14-16: Red for 3 rows, knit all stitches

Row 17: Orange for 1 row, knit all stitches

Row 18-20: Red for 3 rows, knit all stitches

Row 21-22: Orange for 2 rows, knit all stitches

Row 23-25: Red for 3 rows, knit all stitches

Row 26-28: Orange for 3 rows, knit all stitches

Row 29-30: Red for 2 rows, knit all stitches

Row 30-32: Orange for 3 rows, knit all stitches

Row 33: Red for 1 row.  Begin decreasing on this row: k14, ssk, k2tog*

Orange for the next 3 rows, pattern as follows:

Row 34: k12, ssk, k2tog*

Row 35: k10, ssk, k2tog*

Row 36: k8, ssk, k2tog*

Row 37: Red for 1 row: k6, ssk, k2tog*

Orange for all remaining rows:

Row 38: k4, ssk, k2tog*

Row 39: k2, ssk, k2tog*

Row 40: k2tog*

Weave the yarn through the last stitches and tie off.  Weave in ends.

If you are making this a Lightning McQueen hat, the bolt is a separate piece of fabric that is sewed directly to the hat. I cut the bolt out of an old yellow t-shirt that he grew out of; the jersey material is springy enough to move with the knitted hat and not get warped or torn.  I drew my own template and traced the shape onto the material, then cut it out and sewed it on.  Since it’s t-shirt material, I didn’t worry about hemming it.

The kid loves this hat.  He refused to take it off all day yesterday, although the weather was unseasonably warm for mid-October.

Please note this pattern was made by me.  You are free to make a hat out of it and give it as a gift, but please do not make money off it.  Thanks!

Windshield Boot Warmers

I love these things.  With the cold weather approaching, I decided it was time to stock up on the necessaries to survive the winter.  I'm not a winter person.  My biggest beef with winter is that I don't like driving in the snow, and there's always the looming possibility that I might wake up to that white, slushy nonsense outside that is sure to slow down my morning commute and generally piss me off.  I live in the Pacific Northwest, which means it hardly ever snows, but when it does, we all lose our minds.  My people are prepared for rain, but not snow.

I also don't like pants.  Pants are constrictive and bothersome.  They feel like I'm wearing clothes, for crying out loud.  I rejoiced when fleece-lined leggings started coming into style, because it means I can wear skirts in the winter and stay warm.  Just get a decent pair of boots, and you've got yourself a work-appropriate outfit that feels like you're still wearing pajamas.

But then I saw these adorable little leg warmer-type things start to peek out above the tops of tall boots.  This is even better, as the small gap of leg area between the skirt and the boot can now be doubly protected from the cold winter's curse.  But those things are expensive, given the fact that they're just a knitted tube. 

So I made myself a pair.  These are knitted in the round using the windshield stitch from plain jane creations.  Her free pattern is for a cowl, but I adapted it for a smaller project, and added a k1, p1 element to the top and bottom to give it a nice finished look.  Visit her page to find the stitch instructions, as well as needle and yarn sizing (although I used a slightly larger needle than her instructions call for, to get a looser look).

I love watching an interesting stitch come together, don't you?  It's almost like magic.

To make these lovely boot warmers, co 45 stitches of nice, soft wool.  k1, p1 for 5 rows, then go directly into the stitch pattern linked above (ignore her cast on/off instructions, and just start with Row 1).  The pattern is a repeat of 15 stitches, over a sequence of 27 rows.  Complete the sequence one time, then start again and finish on row 12.  k1, p1 for another 5 rows, and cast off as loosely as possible.  Weave in ends.  Make 2.  You don't need to block this one, because wearing it will make the pattern appear.

Throw on a pair of warm, fleecey leggings, your favorite comfy skirt or dress, a pair of tall boots, and run outside to enjoy the season!

Striped Herringbone Baby Blanket

I finally finished my first baby blanket.  My husband keeps calling this the Sounders blanket.  The Sounders are the local soccer team, which is not too bad I suppose, except that I didn’t intend to promote anyone.  Darnitall.

This took me a few weeks, partly because I'm short on time but mostly because unfortunately the stitch is not one you can shut off your brain for (except the WS resting rows).  I had to rip out a row every once in a while to fix errors.  But it’s complete now, and I think it looks pretty nice.  The stitch creates a lovely subtle wave along the bottom, and there's an interesting interlocking thing going on with the color changes.  This is not the biggest baby blanket you will see, and I have plans for a much larger one next, so I think this one will just be something for the little guy to snuggle up with.  It’s very soft and cozy with a nice drape.

The yarn I used is a worsted cotton-soy blend.  Not machine washable, which is a total bummer.  I ordered it online and I thought the website said it was machine washable.  Turns out it’s not so much.  Boo.

This pattern is modeled after the Herringbone stitch from The Harmony Guide 450 More Knitting Stitches, v2 (2004), and could be used for just about anything with a little tweaking.  It includes a 2-stitch moss border on each side to prevent the fabric from rolling inward.  The blanket in the photos has not been blocked yet, but as you can see it might not even need it.

Herringbone Baby Blanket

Worsted weight yarn, 440 yards total:

(I used 4 skeins at 110 yards each: 2 skeins spring green, 1 skein royal blue, 1 skein bright white, all Queensland Collection Bebe Cotsoy.)

Size 7 circular needles, or some really long straight needles

CO 110 st.

Pattern Sequence:

Row 1: (WS) p1, k1, purl to last st, k1
Row 2: k1, p1, *k2tog, k2, L-inc, k2; repeat from * to last 3 sts, k2, p1
Row 3: repeat Row 1
Row 4: k1, p1, k3, L-inc, k2, k2tog *k2, L-inc, k2 k2tog; repeat from * to last 2 sts; k1, p1

How to complete the lift-increase stitch (L-inc):

1. Insert the right-hand needle into the right leg of the stitch below the next stitch
2. Lift this loop up onto the left hand needle
3. Knit this picked up loop as normal
4. Knit the stitch above the lifted loop (the original stitch, which is still on the left-hand needle)*

*Be sure to knit both the new (lifted up) loop as well as the original stitch to complete the L-inc, or your stitch count will be off, which will throw off the whole pattern.  It will feel like knitting 2 stitches but it counts as one!  I made this mistake a few times…

To complete the blanket, repeat the pattern sequence, switching colors with the intarsia method. 

The sequence repeats as follows:

1 sequence white

2 sequences blue

5 sequences green

2 sequences blue

Repeat until the end, finishing with a white sequence.  With the final white sequence, complete all 4 rows of the pattern, then bind off loosely in a row 1 (WS) pattern and weave in ends.  Block if desired. 

Froggie Baby Legs

Okay that’s not a real baby.  My first progeny is due in a couple months, so I decided to finally get started on some of his personalized fashionable knitwear.  I really can’t stand the generic pastel colored baby clothes and accessories available in stores.  Just because I’m having a boy doesn’t mean everything needs to be powder blue.  Unfortunately it’s not easy to find a more saturated palette without paying ridiculous prices at the ultra-swanky baby boutiques.  So I decided to make a few things myself.  Give the guy a splash of color.

These are crazy easy, and would be a good use for stash yarn cuz they took very little to make – less than half a skein total.  Quick too; these took just a few hours to knit up in front of the TV.

I had to guess on the size.  I don’t have a baby yet to be my model, but these look about right to me.  And if they don’t fit, it’s not like I put a lot of time (or yarn) into them.

Baby Legs

2 (partial) skeins worsted weight yarn (I used Kelly green Peruvian highland wool for color A, and a Blueish-teal superwash merino wool for color B.)

US size 7 circular needles

Notes

m1 = make one stitch, an increase technique

CO 28 in color A and join in the round, careful not to twist work.

K2 p2 for 8 rows

Switch to color B, carrying color A up the inside of the work.

K3, m1 until your stitches count 36

Knit 2 more rows in color B, then switch to color A

Knit 2 rows color A, 3 rows color B, 2 rows color A, 3 rows color B etc., until piece measures about 7 inches.  End with color B.

Switch back to color A, knit one row.

K2 p2 for 7 rows in color A.

BO in pattern.

Make 2.

Those look pretty cozy, even on a fake baby.

Andean Trekker Gauntlets

I do not fancy gloves.  I prefer to maintain finger dexterity.  But I tend to get cold in the extremities, especially during the winter, which can make things like knitting, or life, a lot harder to do.  As a solution to this problem, I used to cut little holes into the hems of my sleeves for my thumbs to poke through, so that my hand was mostly covered with fabric and my fingers were free.  Then last year I noticed some clothing manufacturers were selling things like sweatshirts and fleeces with thumb holes.  Whoever came up with that idea is awesome.

Then I thought, well why not make a knitted version of those holey sleeves?  Turns out, I’m not as much of a genius as I thought I was, because this is already a Thing.  They’re called gauntlets…or arm warmers, but I prefer gauntlets.  It makes me think of She-Ra.

There are some out there with partial fingers, or partial thumbs, but I prefer the entirely fingerless and thumbless kind, because you can wear them all day and push them up your arm if you need free hands.  Just yank your thumb out first.

For these gauntlets, I went with a super soft baby alpaca in a worsted weight.  Unfortunately I think I threw away the tag, because I can't find it.  So I can't tell you the brand of yarn I used.  I know it wasn't one of my usual ones (Cascade or Berroco), but I can tell you that it's a lovely indigo blue color with a bit of a halo.

These are knitted on the round, but started straight to get a button-over flap.  The flap part is bound off before joining the rest of the row.

This is my very first published pattern.  I made this up as I went along and then took notes so please leave a comment if you find a mistake in the pattern.  Or let me know if you have any questions and I’ll be happy to help you out.

As a side note, I have skinny wrists and forearms, and these are fairly loose on me.  If I were to make them again I might make them a stitch or two smaller.  But otherwise I’m very happy with them.

Andean Trekker Gauntlets

Materials:

2 skeins worsted weight baby alpaca, or any worsted weight yarn

US size 5 needles

US size 7 circular needles

Cable needle

Notes:

c3f:  place 3 st on the cable needle and hold in front.  Knit the next 3 st, then knit the 3 st from the cable needle.  Knit the final 3 st of the cable pattern.

c3b:  knit 3 st, place 3 st on the cable needle and hold behind work.  Knit the next 3 st, then knit the 3 st from the cable needle.
yo 2:  yarn over twice.

Right hand:

CO 50 st on size 5 needles

Row 1 & 3:  k1 p1, repeat to end of row - do not connect in round

Row 2 & 4:  p1 k1, repeat to end of row

Row 5:  k1, p1, k2tog, yo 2, p2tog, (k1, p1) repeat to end of row

Row 6 & 8:  p1, k1, repeat to end of row

Row 7 & 9:  k1, p1, repeat to end of row

Row 10:  p1, k1, repeat to last 6 st, p2tog, yo2, k2tog, p1, k1

Row 11 & 13:  k1, p1, repeat to end of row

Row 12 & 14:  p1, k1, repeat to end of row

Row 15: BO 8 st in pattern, k1, p1 to end of row

Switch to size 7 circular needles and join in round, being careful not to twist work.  Split row onto needles with 22 st in front and 21 in back, or place stitch marker after 22 st.

Row 1-4:  k4, p3, k9, p3, k3, k21

Row 5:  k4, p3, (c3f, k3), p3, k3, k21

Row 6 & 7:  k4, p3, k9, p3, k3, k21

Row 8:  k4, p3, (k3, c3b), p3, k3, k21

Row 9 & 10:  k4, p3, k9, p3, k3, k21
(directions in parenthesis are the cable portion described in the notes above)

Repeat these 10 rows until work measures 12 inches, or you've done about 15 cables.  End with a cable row.

Thumbhole:

Continue pattern as usual, but knitted straight for 9 rows.  For the cable rows, weave the yarn through a stitch in the work below until it is back at the front.  To do this, use a crochet hook or knitting needle to insert your working yarn into a stitch near the thumb opening, pull it through the stitch until the yarn ball will thread through the opening, and pull to tighten.  This accomplishes two things:  the thumbhole is strengthened with additional stitches, and the working yarn is back in the front of the work to make the cabling easier.  Only do this on cable rows where the working yarn is on the wrong side of the thumbhole.  For non-cable rows, simply p instead of k, and k instead of p until you are back at the front.  You should only have to weave three times.  End on a cable row.

Rejoin the work in the round and continue pattern until 2 more cable rows (4 cables) are completed.

K1 p1 for 10 rows, then BO loosely in pattern.

Left hand:

CO 50 st on size 5 needles

Row 1 & 3:  k1 p1, repeat to end of row, do not connect in round

Row 2 & 4:  p1 k1, repeat to end of row

Row 5:  p1, k1, repeat to last 6 st, p2tog, yo2, k2tog, p1, k1

Row 6 & 8:  p1, k1, repeat to end of row

Row 7 & 9:  k1, p1, repeat to end of row

Row 10:  k1, p1, k2tog, yo 2, p2tog, (k1, p1) repeat to end of row

Row 11 & 13:  k1, p1, repeat to end of row

Row 12 & 14:  p1, k1, repeat to end of row

Row 15:  k1, p1, repeat to end of row

Row 16:  BO 8 st in pattern, then join in the round, being careful not to twist work.

Switch to size 7 circular needles.  Split row onto needles 21 st in front, 22 in back, or place stitch marker after 21 st.

Row 1-4:  k21, k4, p3, k9, p3, k3

Row 5:  k21, k4, p3, (c3f, k3), p3, k3

Row 6 & 7:  k21, k4, p3, k9, p3, k3

Row 8:  k21, k4, p3, (k3, c3b), p3, k3

Row 9 & 10:  k21, k4, p3, k9, p3, k3

Repeat these 10 rows until work matches where the thumbhole started on the right hand.  End with a cable row.

Complete the thumbhole the same way as the right hand.

Rejoin the work in the round and continue pattern until 2 more cable rows (4 cables) are completed.

K1 p1 for 10 rows, then BO loosely in pattern.

Finishing:

To finish, weave in ends and sew buttons on the non-flap part of the cuffs, lined up with the buttonholes – 2 for each hand.  Optional:  Whipstitch extra yarn around the thumbhole opening to clean it up and strengthen it even more.

By the way, this is my pattern.  Please don’t pass it off as your own or make money off it in any way.  Feel free to try it for personal use though!