I do not fancy gloves. I prefer to maintain finger dexterity. But I tend to get cold in the extremities, especially during the winter, which can make things like knitting, or life, a lot harder to do. As a solution to this problem, I used to cut little holes into the hems of my sleeves for my thumbs to poke through, so that my hand was mostly covered with fabric and my fingers were free. Then last year I noticed some clothing manufacturers were selling things like sweatshirts and fleeces with thumb holes. Whoever came up with that idea is awesome.
Then I thought, well why not make a knitted version of those holey sleeves? Turns out, I’m not as much of a genius as I thought I was, because this is already a Thing. They’re called gauntlets…or arm warmers, but I prefer gauntlets. It makes me think of She-Ra.
There are some out there with partial fingers, or partial thumbs, but I prefer the entirely fingerless and thumbless kind, because you can wear them all day and push them up your arm if you need free hands. Just yank your thumb out first.
For these gauntlets, I went with a super soft baby alpaca in a worsted weight. Unfortunately I think I threw away the tag, because I can't find it. So I can't tell you the brand of yarn I used. I know it wasn't one of my usual ones (Cascade or Berroco), but I can tell you that it's a lovely indigo blue color with a bit of a halo.
These are knitted on the round, but started straight to get a button-over flap. The flap part is bound off before joining the rest of the row.
This is my very first published pattern. I made this up as I went along and then took notes so please leave a comment if you find a mistake in the pattern. Or let me know if you have any questions and I’ll be happy to help you out.
As a side note, I have skinny wrists and forearms, and these are fairly loose on me. If I were to make them again I might make them a stitch or two smaller. But otherwise I’m very happy with them.
Andean Trekker Gauntlets
Materials:
2 skeins worsted weight baby alpaca, or any worsted weight yarn
US size 5 needles
US size 7 circular needles
Cable needle
Notes:
c3f: place 3 st on the cable needle and hold in front. Knit the next 3 st, then knit the 3 st from the cable needle. Knit the final 3 st of the cable pattern.
c3b: knit 3 st, place 3 st on the cable needle and hold behind work. Knit the next 3 st, then knit the 3 st from the cable needle.
yo 2: yarn over twice.
yo 2: yarn over twice.
Right hand:
CO 50 st on size 5 needles
Row 1 & 3: k1 p1, repeat to end of row - do not connect in round
Row 2 & 4: p1 k1, repeat to end of row
Row 5: k1, p1, k2tog, yo 2, p2tog, (k1, p1) repeat to end of row
Row 6 & 8: p1, k1, repeat to end of row
Row 7 & 9: k1, p1, repeat to end of row
Row 10: p1, k1, repeat to last 6 st, p2tog, yo2, k2tog, p1, k1
Row 11 & 13: k1, p1, repeat to end of row
Row 12 & 14: p1, k1, repeat to end of row
Row 15: BO 8 st in pattern, k1, p1 to end of row
Switch to size 7 circular needles and join in round, being careful not to twist work. Split row onto needles with 22 st in front and 21 in back, or place stitch marker after 22 st.
Row 1-4: k4, p3, k9, p3, k3, k21
Row 5: k4, p3, (c3f, k3), p3, k3, k21
Row 6 & 7: k4, p3, k9, p3, k3, k21
Row 8: k4, p3, (k3, c3b), p3, k3, k21
Row 9 & 10: k4, p3, k9, p3, k3, k21
(directions in parenthesis are the cable portion described in the notes above)
(directions in parenthesis are the cable portion described in the notes above)
Repeat these 10 rows until work measures 12 inches, or you've done about 15 cables. End with a cable row.
Thumbhole:
Continue pattern as usual, but knitted straight for 9 rows. For the cable rows, weave the yarn through a stitch in the work below until it is back at the front. To do this, use a crochet hook or knitting needle to insert your working yarn into a stitch near the thumb opening, pull it through the stitch until the yarn ball will thread through the opening, and pull to tighten. This accomplishes two things: the thumbhole is strengthened with additional stitches, and the working yarn is back in the front of the work to make the cabling easier. Only do this on cable rows where the working yarn is on the wrong side of the thumbhole. For non-cable rows, simply p instead of k, and k instead of p until you are back at the front. You should only have to weave three times. End on a cable row.
Rejoin the work in the round and continue pattern until 2 more cable rows (4 cables) are completed.
K1 p1 for 10 rows, then BO loosely in pattern.
Left hand:
CO 50 st on size 5 needles
Row 1 & 3: k1 p1, repeat to end of row, do not connect in round
Row 2 & 4: p1 k1, repeat to end of row
Row 5: p1, k1, repeat to last 6 st, p2tog, yo2, k2tog, p1, k1
Row 6 & 8: p1, k1, repeat to end of row
Row 7 & 9: k1, p1, repeat to end of row
Row 10: k1, p1, k2tog, yo 2, p2tog, (k1, p1) repeat to end of row
Row 11 & 13: k1, p1, repeat to end of row
Row 12 & 14: p1, k1, repeat to end of row
Row 15: k1, p1, repeat to end of row
Row 16: BO 8 st in pattern, then join in the round, being careful not to twist work.
Switch to size 7 circular needles. Split row onto needles 21 st in front, 22 in back, or place stitch marker after 21 st.
Row 1-4: k21, k4, p3, k9, p3, k3
Row 5: k21, k4, p3, (c3f, k3), p3, k3
Row 6 & 7: k21, k4, p3, k9, p3, k3
Row 8: k21, k4, p3, (k3, c3b), p3, k3
Row 9 & 10: k21, k4, p3, k9, p3, k3
Repeat these 10 rows until work matches where the thumbhole started on the right hand. End with a cable row.
Complete the thumbhole the same way as the right hand.
Rejoin the work in the round and continue pattern until 2 more cable rows (4 cables) are completed.
K1 p1 for 10 rows, then BO loosely in pattern.
Finishing:
To finish, weave in ends and sew buttons on the non-flap part of the cuffs, lined up with the buttonholes – 2 for each hand. Optional: Whipstitch extra yarn around the thumbhole opening to clean it up and strengthen it even more.
By the way, this is my pattern. Please don’t pass it off as your own or make money off it in any way. Feel free to try it for personal use though!
these are very pretty! love the buttons!
ReplyDeleteThanks so much! They're also very cozy. Happy knitting!
ReplyDeleteIt looks like the top part with the buttons are ribbed (in the pictures) but when you work that pattern as written you get a moss stitch. Which is accurate? Also, it seems like row #7 is missing from the pattern, though somewhat intuitive, you might want to fix it.
ReplyDeleteChristoph, thanks for pointing that out. I have added row 7 to the directions. The ribbed portion of the gauntlets are knitted straight; not in the round, so the wrong side will be opposite stitches. This should not result in a moss stitch unless you've connected in the round. The connection occurs after the ribbed part. I hope that helps!
ReplyDeleteThank you for the perfect pattern! I've been looking (and looking, and looking...) for a nice gauntlet pattern with the braided cable! You rock!
ReplyDeleteOK love these, but the thumbs don't make sense to me at all, can you expand a bit?
ReplyDeletethanks
I second this! I do NOT understand the thumb holes AT ALL :)
DeleteNever mind, I think I got it!
DeleteI don't get the thumbholes at all, help
ReplyDeleteIt's OK, I figured it out. ;-)
ReplyDeletelease help with the thumb holes! Questions: by "knotted straight" you mean back and forth across top of gauntlet, right? #2: "insert working yarn into a stitch near the thumb opening " , do you mean stitch on needle or free stitch on side? #3: "pull yarn ball" do you mean working yarn? The whole thing? If I only do this on cable rows, I would only do it twice, but your instructions say three times. I'm so confused!!!��
ReplyDeleteSorry for the confusion; it's meant to reinforce the opening with additional stitches, and also brings the working yard to the correct side. It's a manual stitch and won't be beautiful, but doesn't need to be because it will blend in and disappear. I used a crochet hook to make some additional stitches at the opening, and made sure I ended where the yarn was in front of the work so you can continue the pattern. I hope that makes sense!
DeleteCould you please provide the gauge for this beautiful set of gloves? I generally have to change the needle size as I knit tight. Thank you for your help.
ReplyDeleteIn a previous comment I asked for the gauge for this pattern. I didn't give you a way to contact me. Hopefully I have provided the necessary information so you are able to respond. Thank you
ReplyDeleteJoan, Sorry for the delay. I used a worsted weight, about 21(ish) sts. I lost the tag so I can't say for sure, but it's a tad lighter weight than your standard worsted yarn. The halo added a little bit of heft, but not much. Thanks for your question! Please let me know if you need anything else.
DeletePlease help. I'm stuck on the thumb hole. I still not getting your instructions. How many stitches do I bind off and how many stitches from the cable. I also don't understand the weaving in.
ReplyDeleteHi Susan, you will not be binding off, but knitting straight back and forth (not in the round) for 9 rows, then rejoining the work to continue. The 9 straight rows create the thumb hole. The weaving is done with a darning needle or a crochet hook, and simply brings the working yarn to the right place (the front of the work) to continue the pattern. I hope that helps!
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